Centro, one of the new kids on the block in downtown Allentown, is an Italian-inspired restaurant, but not necessarily in the way most Americans are habituated to think. There are no red-and-white checkered tablecloths on the tables. Chicken Parm does not have a spot on the menu. It’s not likely you’ll find someone offering you the obligatory house Chianti, nor garlic knots, for that matter.
Instead, you’ll encounter a refined rustic décor, a relaxed, lounge-y vibe around the bar and lobby areas and a larger-than-life print of a famous scene from Roman Holiday on the wall: Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck atop a Vespa. Homemade pasta, about 50 pounds of it a week, provides the backbone for the menu. Wines are available by the glass (including a Chianti), quartino and, of course, by the bottle.
This isn’t an entirely novel concept in general, nor for the Lehigh Valley; Sette Luna and Molinari’s in Easton and Bethlehem, respectively and chronologically, have been turning out great authentic Italian fare for a while. However, Centro brings it to Allentown, with its own Northern Italian-focused spin—think more butter and cream and less olive oil, and a focus on heartier
ingredients with dishes that often feature boar, duck, rabbit, risotto and polenta. “Most people are familiar with Southern Italian cuisine. They wanted to do something different,” says Tonia Lynn, restaurant manager. She’s referring to Greenwood Hospitality Group, which operates not only Centro, but The Dime, Renaissance hotel and the nearby Starbucks.
But don’t worry—the menu doesn’t completely exclude the rest of Italy’s culinary offerings. And at Centro, its hospitality prioritizes and prides itself on the warm welcome—a signature of any good restaurant but something most strongly associated with Italian ones. “We want you to feel like family. We all feel like family,” says Lynn, gesturing to the servers and back toward the kitchen. She believes firmly in her mission. “I want people to feel comfortable. You have to do this job with your heart. You have to serve people with love. You will feel that energy when you walk in,” she says.
“There’s a lot of love and care that goes into everything we make here,” says Jason Shafer, sous chef.
That vibe pragmatically translates to what Lynn calls “the shareable concept. Sit around the table, family style—relax and chill,” she says. The lack of televisions enforces that environment.
Lynn’s not talking about endless passed platters of spaghetti and meatballs, ladled out with an oversize serving spoon. Sharing plates at Centro is merely a modern iteration of the traditional family-style meal. It’s more about ordering a bunch of dishes everyone’s curious about and sharing a little bit of arancini, a few nibbles of mushroom ravioli. If you aren’t sure where to start, your server is more than equipped to suggest items and pace them for you accordingly, course by course. They want to help and aim to please. “We are seeing that take off; it’s incredible. We have lots of parties of 8-10 and the sharing concept works really well there,” she says.
“It seems like every week it’s someone’s birthday,” says Shafer.
“It’s true,” nods Lynn.
Although the restaurant is relatively new and therefore it is, as to be expected, a bit of a work in progress, there’s much to choose from on the menu, and much of it will remain regardless of seasonal changes. Shafer says you are likely, however, to see different seasonal accompaniments to dishes based on what’s in season. (They haven’t yet dug into local foods, but Shafer’s looking forward to seeing what’s possible.) Order the steamed mussels, order a couple of pizzas, which are flatbread-style rather than Neapolitan, and share away. The funghi, with shiitake, cremini, oyster mushrooms and drizzled with white truffle oil, is super popular. Lynn keeps mentioning the house-made burrata, a fresh cheese made from mozzarella and cream—“it is just so stinkin’ good”—which on my visit was served with butternut squash, eggplant caponata and arugula. She doesn’t think that the burrata will rightly come off the menu; Shafer agrees. (I’m betting you’ll see it with fresh tomatoes and basil, or something similarly summery, when appropriate.) Split the spaccatelle, with prosciutto, vodka sauce and Parmesan. You can even order an entrée and share. “We want you to try a number of items on the menu,” she says. “One plate can certainly feed one person, but that’s boring,” she says.
Maybe so, but it’s hard to be bored at Centro, where the décor is the brainchild of City Center Vice President and Design Director Jane Brown Heft, who had just come back from a trip to Italy, full of inspiration. There’s the de facto presence of exposed brick, but Centro boasts an unusual amount of natural light—there is an entire wall of windows, for example—given the fact that it’s downtown and, naturally, in an old building. The vision, right down to the vintage hanging doors suspended over booths and the Roman Holiday wall, is very carefully considered.
That concise vision typifies Centro, which, after all, is Italian for “center.” The restaurant made its debut in October and was instantly overwhelmed by curious, hungry and grateful patrons. Advertising and social media buzz were strong from the start; the fireplace in the lobby, warming patrons coming in from the cold, adds to the appeal. (Summertime brings outdoor dining.) “Our word of mouth has been good. Our street cred is great,” Lynn says.
As you might imagine, that goes double for behind the bar. Lynn sings the praises of Ryan Sabo, who’s in charge of the beverage program at Centro. Sabo, an Allentown native with significant restaurant experience, is what Lynn calls “the creative mastermind behind the bar, our liquid chef.” Like any progressive bar manager, Sabo makes his own bitters and “his own cellos—lemon, lime, grapefruit and orange,” says Lynn. Naturally, the fruits in the mixed drinks are all fresh, and Lynn says the Italian Greyhound is one of their popular cocktails—imagine gin, grapefruit juice, balsamic vinegar and Prosecco. Their bestseller, though, is the Sgroppino, a refreshing number with vodka, Prosecco (there it is again) and house-made lemon sorbetto, topped with fresh mint.
Lynn, whose genuine passion illuminates the truth that she eats, sleeps and drinks all of this, says that the predominantly all-Italian wine list (90 percent) took her by surprise. “I was surprised how well people took to the wine list,” she says. And despite her familiarity beforehand, the immersive experience with Italian wines, in general, has been a revelation. “As they sit, they change. Every sip is a little different. And it just takes you to another place,” she says. Italian beers, which have come into their own in recent years thanks to the rise in craft consciousness when it comes to beer, also have a home at Centro.
After all that dining and drinking, there’s still more to consider. You’ll want to make sure you save room for dessert; mercifully, after an evening of making lots of decisions, this particular part of the menu is short and sweet. If you can’t find enough real estate for it, beg someone you’re dining with to order dessert, so you can share a little of that, too. The chocolate budino—a pudding-like confection—earns raves and is topped with house-made pistachio gelato and biscotti crumbs. Lynn gushes about the tiramisu, served in a Mason jar, which made a believer out of her. “It’s just so fresh you realize that what you’ve been tasting as tiramisu most of your life is just not that good,” she says. You’ll also encounter a popular Italian street food, pizza fritta, rendered in dessert form; it’s deep fried, rolled in cinnamon sugar, and receives a caramel and chocolate
drizzle, chocolate shavings and a dollop of house-made vanilla gelato.
See for yourself what’s central to Centro—the sharing, the caring, the convivial vibe. And, of course, all that Italian fare.
Centro
530 Hamilton St., Allentown | 610.841.4016 | centroallentown.com
Hours:
Mon.-Fri. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; lunch until 3 p.m., dinner starts at 4:30 p.m.; Sat. 4:30-11 p.m. “But if you are here late and partying, we are here with you partying. We will not kick you out if it’s 10:45,” says Lynn.
Reservations:
Definitely necessary on the weekend, through OpenTable or by calling or emailing eat@centroallentown.com.
Parking:
Centro participates in the Park Free validation program; there’s a municipal lot right behind them at 6th and Walnut. Street parking and other decks are within walking distance.
Specials:
Happy Hour, Mon.-Fri. 4:30-7 p.m.; $5 wine feature, plus $2 off well drinks and pizza. Lynn says Centro also participates in the Perka app, which is basically like “a virtual punch card” that keeps track of your visits and orders.
What to Order:
Duck pappardelle, mushroom ravioli, any of the flatbreads but the mushroom is especially popular.
Other useful info:
Centro has both vegan and gluten-free pasta options—and gluten-free flatbreads for its pizza. They’ll also present you with a kids’ menu, with straightforward items such as pizza and spaghetti and meatballs, along with sausage and chicken dishes.
