Chef Steve Kershner has worked in restaurants his entire life and he can't imagine doing anything else. For him, it's not really work at all.
Like many successful entrepreneurs, he started early. As a teen, he logged 40 hours a week in the kitchen at Hotel Bethlehem. “So much for child labor laws,” he says, “but when you were a kid it was fun. You're out and meeting people.” And for Kershner, the fun is still there.
His latest labor of love, Twisted Olive, celebrated its second anniversary in July. It's a casual and friendly spot in downtown Bethlehem where you can kick back and dig in—not a fancy white tablecloth in sight. Kershner believes that once a tablecloth goes on the table, it changes everything. “We don't want anyone to think we're putting on airs,” he explains. What he does want is for you to be pleasantly surprised by the food, which is actually quite upscale.
The restaurant just earned an Award of Excellence from TripAdvisor, meaning quite a few visitors have lauded Kershner's kitchen magic.
As co-owner (with wife, Sherri), he's not limited to any one style and has the freedom to indulge his fun side, inventing dishes you won't find anywhere else in the Lehigh Valley.
The French Onion Soup Dumpling appetizer is a case in point. “I make a highly concentrated French onion soup that goes inside a wonton that is flash-fried, then placed in an escargot dish, covered with Gruyere and melted,” Kershner explains, “then a garlic brioche crouton goes on top.”
Another crowd pleaser is the crispy butternut squash appetizer featuring pickled Fresno chile, sage honey and Parmigiano Reggiano. Kershner grows the squash, chile and sage in his garden.
In fact, many fresh and organic ingredients find their way to the restaurant from Kershner's home a few miles outside Bethlehem. He grows tomatoes, red beets, Swiss chard, kale, multiple varieties of peppers, carrots, snow peas, potatoes, edamame and herbs, just to name a few, and plants them in succession so there is something new coming up at all times. At press time, Kershner had just harvested leeks and 65 feet of garlic. The latter was hanging in his garage, and the leeks found their way into ravioli, soup and salad at the restaurant.
The affable Kershner routinely surprises his staff with gifts of produce. “I showed up with a case of nectarines recently and said, ‘Here you go!' It could be plums one day or a bunch of herbs the next,” he laughs. Fruit and herbs find their way into the “spirited beverage collection,” too, which includes the restaurant's signature infusions and barrel-aged cocktails.
Kershner has six barrels in the back at any one time. A blackboard in the bar lists inspired combinations.
When weather permits, diners can enjoy their drinks and food on the outdoor patio. Several tables overlook West Broad Street, but are tucked safely away from traffic. It's the perfect spot for a refreshing lunch break while shopping or for a relaxed date night. Families with children love it as well. Twisted Olive is decidedly kid-friendly and offers a children's menu with kid favorites like burgers, pasta and chicken.
Fall also means butternut squash soup. Twisted Olive won last year's Downtown Bethlehem Soup Trail competition with its recipe, made from freshly grown squash from Kershner's garden and served with a butternut squash wonton and honey sage drizzle.
He smokes his own meats; they're featured every Wednesday on BBQ night. Kershner also recently reorganized the menu to include small plate/large plate options. Those not looking for a full entrée can upsize an appetizer to a large plate for just a few dollars more. It's a happy medium, and an idea that's really caught on. “It's cost effective,” he explains. “Instead of spending a big amount for dinner, you can spend the same amount and come back two or three times.”
The most popular small/large plate item is the braised short rib ravioli with caramelized onion and Madeira cream. Kershner served it at this year's Lehigh Valley Food and Wine Festival and received rave reviews. He explains, “People kept coming back for more. One guy said, ‘Give me five!' So I gave him five. By the end of the day, people came back and said they'd tried everything but ours was the best food. That was so nice to hear.”
What really makes Kershner glow is discussing his organic garden. Like a proud papa, he'll share beautiful photos of tomatillos and more on his cellphone. There are plans to include some of the pictures in the next series of framed artwork that graces a wall in the restaurant. The frames made their debut in February with six wedding photos he enlarged as a
Valentine's Day surprise for his wife. That's the kind of thing Kershner likes to do. Share a little love, have some fun and spread joy.
Watch Chef Steve Kershner in Action
Tune into The Chef's Kitchen on RCN-TV Channel 4 or, for Service Electric subscribers, Comcast Network's Channel 27 every Thurs. at 5 p.m. during the month of October to see his tips and techniques to create this recipe.
Butternut Squash Soup with Maple Syrup
3 1/2 lbs butternut squash4 Tablespoons butter1 1/2 cups onion, chopped6 cups chicken or vegetable stock1/2 cup light brown sugar1/2 cup maple syrup grade B2 cups heavy creamCinnamon, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste
Peel and cube squash. Melt the butter in a soup pot and add the chopped onion; sauté until softened. Add squash, stock, sugar and maple syrup to the pot. Bring to a boil then reduce to a medium to low boil. Cook until the squash falls apart easily. Puree soup mixture with a hand-held immersion stick or in small batches in a blender. Return to pot, add the cream and spices, salt and pepper and reduce until soup thickens slightly. Adjust seasonings and serve with creme fraiche and a drizzle of maple syrup.
Tempura Squash with Sage Honey, Pickled Fresno Chile and Parmesan
Serves 8
Pickled Fresno Chile
1/2 cup cider vinegar2 Tablespoons sugar2 teaspoons kosher salt4 sage leavesPinch of nutmeg4 Fresno or red jalapeño chiles, sliced with seed
Bring all ingredients except chiles to a boil. Pour over sliced chiles and cover with plastic wrap for 5 minutes. Uncover and let stand until reaching room temperature. Refrigerate up to 4 weeks.
Sage-infused honey
1/4 cup honey2 teaspoons sage, finely choppedPinch of nutmegPinch of kosher salt
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and warm without boiling. Let steep for 30 minutes.
Butternut squash
3 1/2 lb butternut squash, cut into 1-inch cubes2 Tablespoons melted butterSalt and pepper for seasoning
Preheat oven to 375°F. Toss all ingredients together and place in a roasting dish or tray. Roast for approximately 22 minutes. Squash should still have a firm texture and not be cooked all the way through.
Tempura
1 1/2 cups rice flour1 1/2 oz vodka2 cups sparkling water
Whisk all ingredients together. Preheat deep fryer to 375°F. Coat squash with additional rice flour and coat in tempura batter. Carefully place in hot oil and fry until crispy and brown.
To finish, place squash in serving bowls, drizzle with sage honey and sprinkle fresh-grated Parmesan over top. Place chiles and some fried sage leaves on top and serve with lemon wedges.
Chilean Sea Bass with Creamed Cabbage
2 large carrots, cut into small dice1/2 head celery root or 1/2 cup celery, cut into fine dice1 small head Savoy cabbage, cored and shredded1 cup heavy creamSea salt and ground black pepper to taste4 6-oz fillets of Chilean sea bass8 slices of prosciutto (optional)2 Tablespoons olive oil3 1/2 Tbsp butter
Preheat oven to 350°F. Bring pan of salted water to a boil, add carrots and celery to water. Cook for 2 minutes, remove vegetables and refresh with cold running water until cooled. Repeat with cabbage but only cook for 1 minute. Drain vegetables completely.
Bring heavy cream to a boil and reduce by half. Stir in vegetables, season with salt and pepper and continue to cook for 1-2 minutes longer.
If using the prosciutto, wrap 2 pieces around each fillet, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour. This will help in keeping its shape.
Heat olive oil and butter in a large frying pan and when it begins to foam add fillets. Cook on all sides until lightly browned, then place in oven-proof dish with the pan drippings and place in oven for 5 minutes. Divide the sauce onto 4 warm plates and top with the fish.
