Tradition and innovation are often opposing culinary forces—businesses usually require a little bit of both in order to succeed. Culinary specialty shops walk that line well, and the Lehigh
Valley is loaded with many gourmet spots offering the finest meats, cheeses, olive oils and pastas. (And no, they're not all Italian). Here are five that are perfect to take advantage of this fall.
Olive With A Twist
The Easton Public Market is a lot of fun for food lovers for multiple reasons, one of them being the high-end, organic olive oils from Brian Terry and Christopher Robinson's Olive With A Twist. This duo, which also owns a shop in Frenchtown, Basking Ridge and, soon, in Philadelphia, offers an array of extra-virgin olive oils from major olive-growing regions of the world. Their oils and vinegars are unusual, too, insofar as they're not infused with synthetic ingredients to achieve those standout combos such as blood orange, honey, Tuscan herb and, yes, of course, bacon.
In addition to the beautiful cutting boards, serving pieces, imported pastas, condiments and other makings of a culinary feast, there's one noteworthy item: cheese. Terry and Robinson go to great lengths to stock some unusual cheeses, many of them local, but lots are imported, too, all of which they are only too happy to let you sample. (Ask for the lemon or chocolate ricotta; they periodically have it and it tastes like dessert.)
325 Northampton St., Easton | 908.628.3188 | olivewithatwist.com
Calandra's Cheeses
Sicilian immigrant Salvatore Calandra opened Calandra's in 1949, and, now, his sons Sal and Charlie Calandra operate it. This place is beloved for its classic cheeses, many of them made in house—think ricotta, mozzarella (in a variety of shapes—braids! ropes!), provolone, Romano and basket cheese. Never heard of it? It's a mild, soft and spreadable cheese that's formed in a basket, with a flavor somewhere between ricotta and mozzarella. At Calandra's, expect to run into Italian grandmothers buying ricotta for cheesecake and lasagna, and anyone else who's hooked on the shop's multiple mozzarellas. Yes, like many of the other specialty grocers listed here with an Italian bent, you'll encounter imported pasta, too, in various shapes. Don't forget—it's cash or check only.
Insider Tip
Calandra's in Nazareth doesn't have any relation to the Calandra's bakery in Newark, New Jersey. And no, they don't own the shop in the Bronx bearing their name, although they used to, and you'll find some of their basic cheeses there.
350 E. Lawn Rd., Nazareth | 610.759.2299 | calandracheesesofnazareth.com
Nello's Specialty Meats
Nello's specializes in wholesale, retail and custom processing of beef, bison, pork, boar, lamb and poultry, along with elk and wild game. They make dozens of varieties of sausage and specialty hot dogs, such as a Mexican-style chorizo dog and a Colombian-style one with fresh scallions. Their unique jerkies will satisfy those following a Paleo diet, and hunters know it's where you go when you need deer processed. “How many places do you know that sell 60 varieties of sausage?” asks Nello Loiacono, who runs the business with his wife, Jan. Most of its business is indeed wholesale, but you can walk in there during business hours as a retail customer, too.
Nello's is one of a dying breed—butchers. He learned the trade from a skilled German man named Guenther Schineller, who hailed from Bavaria. “I haven't changed the recipes for the smoked meats at all,” he says. Lately, Loiacono has begun learning Italian charcuterie, too.
500 Schoeneck Ave., Nazareth | 610.759.0628 | nellosmeats.com
Saylor's and Company
Here's another spot for old-world skills on fine display: Tim Mease, who owns the shop with
his wife, Maria Verzino, is a third-generation butcher—his grandfather Sam Saylor started the business in 1928. The meats at Saylor's have nothing to hide: Everything is cut by hand, trimmed or ground, depending on preference, right in front of you. The lamb, veal and pork are all antibiotic-free—Saylor's also sources Pennsylvania-fed and -grown pork and chicken; the latter from Bell & Evans. Both chicken and pork sausages are available for purchase, house made, along with kielbasa, smoked meats and special offerings such as scrapple. For those in need of dinner or any kind of prepared food or catering, they can help with that, too; Saylor's employs four chefs, with Verzino serving as executive, and three others, including one dedicated to pastry. (That explains the doughnuts, cakes and pies.)
1105 Main St., Hellertown | 610.838.6363 | saylorsandco.com
Stravino's
If you're missing your grandmother's cooking, and she happens to be Italian (or maybe just likes to cook that way), make your way to Stravino's in Whitehall, which was recently purchased by its new owner John Morganti. Looking for ravioli with all kinds of fillings, prepared salads or, in case you're indecisive, 47 varieties of cheese? Stravino's has you covered where that's concerned, along with cool imported finds (one customer reports finding anise oil). Order one of their revered sandwiches from the deli such as the Stravino's Special, with hot capicola, provolone, roasted peppers, olive oil and romaine. Find a box of imported pasta in a fun shape and grab a loaf of bread—it comes from preferred baker Anthony and Sons in New Jersey. Or head to the freezer for meatballs and do it up classic with a spaghetti and meatball dinner. Operating since 1916, Stravino's is an institution for all these reasons and those yet to be explored.
269 5th St., Whitehall | 610.432.2551 | stravinositalianmarket.com
