This past year of quarantine allowed us the unique opportunity to stay home and take stock of our skincare routines to see what works or test what's new. Looking forward to 2021, dermatologist Mansha Sethi, MD, of St. Luke's Dermatology, walks us through the tried and true tools, ingredients and treatments to include in your routine this year and which to leave behind.
Skincare At Home
Skincare ingredients from CBD to probiotics seem to be all the rage right now, but if you want real results, Dr. Sethi says to stick to these gold star products.
Vitamin C is Key
Dr. Sethi says this is the number one ingredient she recommends patients add to their skincare routine. Vitamin C is best used in the morning and helps even out skin pigmentation. Its pure form (L-ascorbic acid) can be irritating for some, so if sensitivity is an issue, look for an ester form that is better tolerated.
Retinol is Here to Stay
The efficacy of retinol is never disputed. It treats acne, prevents wrinkles and fades dark marks. However, it can cause irritation, so it's important to slowly build it in. Retinol is best used at bedtime, every other night to start. There are many over-the-counter options containing varying amounts of retinol at every price point. Once your skin has built up a tolerance, ask your dermatologist for a prescription version of Retin-A.
Something Extra
For oily skin, Dr. Sethi recommends using a clay mask once a week, concentrating on the T-zone. Turmeric masks are great for tackling inflammation and redness. Two percent salicylic acid can be used to shrink pores, especially around the T-zones, but limit use to one to two times a week.
Are At-Home Treatments Worth the Hype?
What about mechanical brushes for exfoliation? “Too much exfoliation can be damaging,” explains Dr. Sethi. “If you are using retinol, you are already getting enough exfoliation. Not to mention, bacterial growth can occur on the brush itself.” Dr. Sethi also cautions against the ubiquitous facial oils. “Face oils seem to be everywhere and they are definitely not good for all skin types—the oils can worsen acne.”
In-Office Treatments
Some things are best left to the professionals and certain skincare treatments are no exception.
Chemical Peels
There are plenty of at-home chemical peel options on the market, but Dr. Sethi warns that they can be very damaging for sensitive skin, so it's best to try a chemical peel at the office. Chemical peels, by definition, cause the top layer of the skin to peel off so healthier skin can grow.
Laser facials
Lasers, when performed by trained dermatologists, are a safe and effective way to improve skin texture, boost collagen production, reduce facial redness and shrink pores. These can also be used to fade brown spots caused by sun damage on the face, hands or any part of the body.
PRP for Hair Loss
Platelet Rich Plasma, known for its rejuvenating effects, can stimulate hair growth on the scalp. The process uses your own blood's plasma, extracting its growth factors, and then injecting them into the scalp. When used to promote hair growth, it's best to start the treatments at the first sign of hair loss. “We're seeing both men and women come in for hair loss triggered by pandemic-related stress. I also use PRP for post-menopausal women who start experiencing hair thinning,” explains Dr. Sethi.
Botox and Fillers
Standards like Botox and fillers will never go out of style, so they are still effective and sought after by patients.
Beware of Tools and Gadgets
Hours spent bored at home during the pandemic have left some people trying new skincare gadgets and fads. One example is the over-hyped jade roller, which Dr. Sethi feels should be left in 2020. “Maybe it has a cooling effect to decrease puffiness if kept in the refrigerator, but it really doesn't help product absorption more than massaging with your hands,” she says. Microneedling is another trendy tool that Dr. Sethi recommends patients leave to the professionals who use sterile, in-office tools. Yes, puncturing your skin in this way can help promote collagen synthesis, but you can scar yourself and cause dyspigmentation if done incorrectly.
The science of skincare changes every day and there will no doubt be more innovative technologies and active ingredients launched in 2021, but for now, consider these tips or make an appointment to see Dr. Sethi for medical and cosmetic dermatology issues at both the Center Valley and Anderson Campus Dermatology locations.
St. Luke's Dermatology | Easton – Center Valley – Wind Gap | 484.503.SKIN (7546) | slhn.org
This post is a sponsored collaboration between St. Luke's University Health Network and Lehigh Valley Style.
