When you take over an established business, it can be a little tricky to navigate. You inherit a clientele, but you also have your own ideas, too. That's only natural. Businesses do this every day, and they often meet with much success.
Such is the case with the new owners of The Vineyard in Bethlehem, whose extended family hails from Norma, Italy—hence, the name change, which adds “Di Norma.”
When brother-and-sister team Luke and Rachael Prosseda took over this hidden gem tucked away in Fountain Hill on a neighborhood side street, it already had some longevity going for it. Previous owners Pietro and Maria DiMatteo had owned the business for nearly 30 years before retiring. The Prossedas had been “low-key looking” for a restaurant for a few years, as Rachael describes it, after spending a lot of time working in them (although Rachael's training is in social work). However, now that they own The Vineyard, with Luke in the kitchen and Rachael in the front of the house, the new duo is ever-present and they're creating their own experience with the space. You'll likely see their parents, too, from time to time (their mom makes the desserts). And given their heritage, the Prossedas brought in some of their own food ideas, of course, based on their travels and their family's love of good, authentic food.
In some ways, The Vineyard continues the tradition of Italian hospitality; keeping some of the kitchen staff helps with that continuity too. (Shout out to Chef Eddie; Rachael says he's been with the restaurant for 30 years.) There's some experience there with the previous menu, and the clientele, that comes in handy. But Luke is doing something a little different; he calls it “Italian-style modern cuisine,” and it's apt. He says the menu has been “slimmed down, pared back and is more focused.”
After an interior facelift, too, to brighten up the space, The Vineyard looks refreshed and renewed, with touches of vintage charm here and there. They're ready to serve you some stellar Italian fare, and that's what they've been doing since September 2021 when the place changed hands. Luke was schooled at The Culinary Institute of America and makes everything from scratch, including the pasta; butchering is done onsite, too. They're using the bones for stock—nothing gets wasted. People are responding positively. “We probably go through 150 orders of pasta a week,” he says.
The dishes are carefully and thoughtfully composed and beautifully executed. You'll find refreshes of classics, and creative takes on some of those classics, too. Much of the menu is sourced as locally and ethically as they can. Mushrooms come from Primordia, Monocacy Coffee Roasters provides the caffeine and a rotating selection of beers surfaces from breweries such as McCall Collective, Bonn Place and Sherman Street Beer Company.
And about that menu. You'll find Italian American mainstays such as marsala, piccata, Calabrese and Parmesan—all available with chicken or veal. “We do the saltimbocca a little differently,” says Luke. Theirs is “alla Roma,” with prosciutto, fresh sage, maitake mushrooms and white wine. Other standbys include scampi, with either mussels, shrimp or clams. New and homespun items include the Nona salad, a charcuterie board featuring olives, vegetables, meats and cheeses—“All the good stuff you might expect to eat at your Italian American grandmother's house,” he says. There are also some moments of unexpected combinations, such as the ravioli that's treated Asian style, like gyoza dumplings (every culture has its dumpling, it's true) in a ginger- and soy-infused stock.
Word of mouth is definitely helping gain them some traction, as they're in a bit of a sleeper location. “You'd have to know about us to find us,” says Rachael. But the menu and service are both working to expand their base, and bring new people in. It's not uncommon for Luke to send out dishes to customers as he's trying things out, to solicit feedback and gauge interest.
(It's also the kind of move that makes patrons loyal—especially if they fall in love with whatever dish just unexpectedly just showed up, “compliments of the chef.”)
Those niceties aren't just for show, or an ego flex. It comes from the heart, a gesture of genuine outreach from the kitchen to the dining room. An effort to make transparent the processes that happen behind swing doors. The Prossedas are keenly aware of the reputation that restaurants have for being pressure cookers where people denigrate one another in the kitchen; the conversation briefly veers to the Hulu series The Bear. “We both grew up working in restaurants where you'd be afraid to walk into the kitchen,” says Rachael. That's not what they're about. “We have a ‘No Yelling' kitchen,” explains Luke. For too long, these have been places of hospitality for others, but inhospitable to those who work there. One restaurant at a time, this is changing.
We'd be remiss if we didn't mention the approachable wine list, with options by the glass or the bottle. “We want people to drink what is good and what is quality—and not what is cheap. But you don't have to spend a lot of money to drink good wine,” says Rachael. Nor, it seems, do you have to spend a lot of money or travel very far to have a delicious Italian meal in a welcoming spot, just slightly off the beaten path.
The Vineyard di Norma
605 Fiot St., Bethlehem | 610.867.2441 | thevineyardrestaurant.net
Hours
Wed. & Thurs.: 4–9 p.m.; Fri. & Sat.: 4–10 p.m.; Sun.: 4–8 p.m.
Reservations: Recommended for the weekends, definitely
What to Order
OK, so, come hungry. Make sure you order the gnocchi, which is house-made and its accompaniments change with the seasons. It's hard to go wrong: they're light as a cloud and made from just flour, water, egg and butter—not heavy on the potato, nor is there any sign of ricotta. The burrata dish is worth trying, too; the accompaniments to that dish change periodically, but it's often served with house-made focaccia. (Sensing a theme?) Pasta Amatriciana comes with a significant kick, but other sauces are possible, too.
If you like cocktails that are a bit different, The Vineyard does those, too. Try the Lavender Haze, with Empress Gin, lemon juice and lavender simple syrup made in house. Another unusual twist, one that calls to mind a pickleback shot? What's the Big Dill? It's garnished with a pickle, with Tito's, sriracha and Tajin seasoning on the rim. Please save room for the dessert. The lemon ricotta cheesecake is as light as a cloud, and the tiramisu leans heavily on the coffee flavors and gets a homespun treatment insofar as it's served in a mug-like bowl, rather than as a carefully cut slice.
Published as "Inside Dish" in the April 2023 edition of Lehigh Valley Style magazine.
