Painter Frida Kahlo holds court at Hellertown’s La Maya, a Mexican restaurant that opened along Main Street in July. Yes, her wall-sized image is a focal point of the décor, but it’s the sense of her that’s the heart of this restaurant.
Passionate, bold and bohemian, that was Kahlo, and that’s La Maya as well. Here, the flavor is bold, there’s passion in every square inch of the décor and the vibe is decidedly bohemian. This is a Mexican restaurant that’s unconventional and proud of it.
Co-owners Charles Moyer and Rogelio Romero dreamed of their own eatery when they worked together at Bethlehem’s Tapas on Main about a decade ago. Moyer, who’s from Bethlehem, has always loved the restaurant industry, he says, and he’s bothered by the amount of time so many of us spend staring at screens today. He wanted to give people a good reason to disconnect from their devices—and connect with each other instead.
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The restaurant’s name hails from the Riviera Maya, a stretch of Caribbean coast on Mexico’s northeastern Yucatán Peninsula that’s home to Tulum and Cancun. The tropical laid-back sensibility found there is the inspiration for Moyer’s and Romero’s restaurant venture together—“a modern, familiar take on traditional Mexican,” as Moyer puts it.
That laid-back sense fuels the ambiance, rich in color and layered details, making La Maya a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. Mother/daughter designers April Wilson and Gabrielle DiFrancesco, respectively, set out to transform “the square white box”—the décor of the juice bar that previously occupied the space—into a warm and comfortable, yet vibrant, restaurant.
The result throbs with personality. Hues of terra-cotta, orange, deep raspberry and rosa Mexicano (Mexican pink) call up a tropical sunset. An arch at the back of the restaurant suggests a grand hacienda in Spanish Revival style. Natural elements such as the black walnut bar top, terra-cotta tile and ceiling beams from a Pennsylvania barn, with a nod to local history, set a rustic, earthy tone.
The requisite sombreros are here, but these are retro specimens hailing from the 1950s. A mix of vintage and modern accoutrements underscore the hip quotient: gorgeous urns, wooden bowls lavishly filled with oranges and limes, potted succulents, flickering gold votives, happy orange-trimmed placemats, gold gingham cloth napkins and soft orange pillows on green alfresco tables and chairs at the entry.
Undoubtedly, however, the showstopper is the 30-foot, mid-century-meets-70s banquette, custom-upholstered in 20 yards of orange velvet. Fun and funky, it plays well with the gallery above it, which includes prints and sketches—some cheeky and irreverent—along with photographs of Romero’s family.
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The cuisine, as Moyer describes it, is “coastal Mexican with modern flair,” known for raw dishes and lighter, brighter flavors. Romero, from Puebla Cholula, Mexico, emphasizes that it’s not your usual Mexican fare: “No rice and beans!” he says.
The menu bears this out: even the nachos—tortilla chips, mixed cheese, pickled morita chiles, tomatoes, pickled red onions, crema, queso cotija, cilantro and avocado salsa—are stripped of beans.
Curated culinary selections have been created by co-executive chefs Freddie Garcia and Andre Meza. Garcia previously cooked at Bethlehem’s Tapas on Main and Easton’s Sette Luna; Meza, from Oaxaca, Mexico, cooks at a Stephen Starr restaurant in Washington, D.C.
Ingredients are sourced locally: fish from Lehigh Valley fresh fish markets, meat from Saylors and produce from regional farms (when available). Sourcing locally is important, says Garcia, because, “We care a lot about our food.” The goal at La Maya is providing an exciting culinary experience; offering the highest-quality food is part of that.
Main plates showcase the lighter, brighter flavors. Butterflied, grilled branzino with verde cruda salsa is topped with red cabbage slaw and Fresno peppers; jumbo white Gulf shrimp are partnered with toasted noodles, pickled morita chiles and fresh lime. A Mexican take on chicken and waffles is particularly tempting: poblano waffles with crispy boneless chicken thighs, Birchrun Hills habanero ranch sauce, watercress and pico de gallo.
Smaller plates, suitable for sharing, feature the raw dishes indicative of this cuisine. “Aguachile verde” is a study in freshness. Flounder marinated in lime juice and salt ceviche-style swims in a sea of tomatillo broth with slices of cucumber and pieces of avocado. Radish slices accent the picture with hints of red; jicama brings crunch. An onion hash garnish adds another layer of texture and flavor. Made fresh every four hours to ensure its emerald green brilliance, the broth—tomatillo, fennel tops, cucumber, cilantro stems, vinegar and serrano peppers—explodes with flavor.
Also prepared ceviche-style, the silky, subtle sea scallops in “callos tostadas” are perfect foil for its saucy yuzu avocado mayo and spicy salsa macha—made with peanuts, sesame, guajillo peppers and chile de árbol. Creaminess and crunch come from avocado, julienne radish, parsley, microgreens and the house-made tostada. All that and there’s more… a crispy finish from the fried shallot topping. Yum.
Textural contrast shines center stage in La Maya’s inspired Chesapeake oysters. Smoked pork belly balances the briny bivalves’ sea essence, and contributes chewy depth. Tortilla crumbs add crunch, and Tsar’s salmon caviar snaps, crackles and pops in your mouth. Fresno pepper jam—Fresno peppers, cloves, red peppers, sugar and cinnamon—infuses a classic mignonette sauce for dipping the oysters. What a flavor bomb.
Oh my, the “guac especial” is, indeed, special. La Maya sends traditional guacamole on a taste trip by adding smoked almonds and Birchrun Blue cheese from a Chester County dairy farm. The nuts’ earthy, smoky notes are brightened by green apple and piqued with pickled red onion. Fresh mint lingers, cooling a bit of heat, and small chunks of avocado contribute big bites of velvety lusciousness. House-made chips finish this shareable plate with crisp pleasure.
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Milky white burrata against baby kale’s dark, leafy greens is still-life lovely. The salad glistens with macha balsamic vinaigrette—with its garlicky, peanutty, smoky flavor—and cherry tomato and red onion provide color accent. Toasted cashews, watermelon radish and green apples contribute to the complex flavor profile here.
Just the sight of La Maya’s margarita is refreshing. Served in a short, wide glass with green trim, the lime slice garnish topped by a purple flower is picture-perfect. Rimmed with Tajín, a tangy spicy seasoning powder of chili peppers, salt and dehydrated lime juice, this is a margarita on steroids. Tajín’s flavor and color transform this drink.
Tasting the traditional Mexican drink, cantarito, is like hitting a jackpot. Icy cold, this combination of the restaurant’s brand of tequila blanco, orange juice, lime juice and grapefruit Jarritos creates a perfect day-at-the-beach drink. Who cares if you’re not at the beach? Beautiful garnet chamoy (a condiment of fruit, dried chiles and lime juice) and Mexican sugar trims the rim of the drink’s traditional colorful clay cup, a “jarrito de barro,” which keeps the drink cold. It’s a cultural experience, sipping a cantarito, and it beams you up directly to Cancun.
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La Reina Frida (the queen Frida), is a royal refresher, for sure. House-made strawberry puree, agave syrup, salt, fresh cracked pepper and egg white with La Maya’s tequila blanco create a classy cocktail, creamy with the subtle sweetness of summer fruit. The gorgeous floral garnish multiplies the happiness quotient of this drink tenfold.
Named for the restaurant’s guiding spirit, this drink is proof positive that Frida Kahlo-style passion infuses La Maya in every way. Drinks refresh in that bracing, clean tequila way; the food grabs your attention with its full-on freshness and flavor; and the ambiance just makes you smile the minute you walk in the door. That’s intentional. Says DiFrancesco of the design team: “We hope La Maya becomes your new escape, a new place to call home, as it has become ours.”
This restaurant is an intoxicating combination of food, drink and décor. Moyer hopes it’s so intoxicating “[people] don’t want to leave.”
Viva La Maya.
Alison Conklin Photography
La Maya
650 Main St., Hellertown | 610.628.2134 | lamayarestaurant.com
HOURS
Mon.–Thurs.: 4–11 p.m.
Fri.: 4 p.m.–midnight
Sat.: 11 a.m.–midnight
Sun.: 11 a.m.–8 p.m.
Cost: Small plates: $15–$30, Mains: $25–$50
Parking: Free on-street parking
Reservations: Highly recommended.
WHAT TO ORDER
Do not miss “guac especial”: smoked almonds and blue cheese elevate this to the penthouse of flavor. A sight for sore eyes, “aguachile verde” wakes up your taste buds. Cool the heat with “cantarito”—oozing with Mexican character, taste and tequila… the cup is so fun! I love this drink.
Published as “Inside Dish” in the September 2024 edition of Lehigh Valley Style magazine.
