Long-running family restaurants are remarkable in and of themselves; their very existence contains multitudes. Ones that employ the same chef for many years, along with other restaurant kitchen and front of the house staff, are even more telling. And eateries that survive a pandemic are worth commending, too (along with our patronage). Although in the grand scheme of things, the pandemic is perhaps a very small blip on the radar for this very old establishment. It still feels worthy of a pause, though, to say that the Limeport Inn is a place that embodies all of those characteristics. If you’re not sure what to expect, let it surprise you.
Like so many of these bucolic roadside establishments, the Limeport Inn in Coopersburg is historic, dating to 1842 as a stagecoach stop. Naturally, it’s seen many changes through the years—its name being one of them, as it used to be known as the Country Carriage Inn and Limeport Hotel. This revered spot has been owned by Mark and Angel Jamison for the past 20 years, and its day-to-day operations are the responsibility of their daughter, Emily Fischer, 27, and chef Ashley Stull, 37.
Within minutes of talking to them and tasting their food, it’s apparent that Fischer eats, sleeps and breathes this place. From as early as six years old, she would sit on the kitchen milk crates and watch the prep work, an activity that seems to have ordained her future. “I was never pressured, but once I expressed an interest, I was supported,” she says.
Stull grew up down the street from the Limeport, making it easy to find a job as a dishwasher when she was a teenager. Now she’s in the kitchen, although her official restaurant training is front of the house. When they talk, they finish each other’s sentences. When they stand next to each other for a photograph, they convey a commanding presence, but an ease, too. Fischer and Stull relate in a seemingly effortless way that develops after working together for years, from long hours logged behind the line and bumping into each other in a tiny restaurant kitchen. But it’s also something more intrinsic than that. “We can communicate with each other without speaking,” says Stull.
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Chef Ashley Stull with Emily Fischer
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The family vibe is undoubtedly responsible for the longevity of the restaurant.
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Some vestiges of the Limeport Inn's previous Irish pub status are still in place, at least superficially, such as the sassy signs above the bar.
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Seafood Pad Thai - Shrimp, scallops, mussels, rice noodles, red onion, carrot, pickled bean sprouts and peanuts
When things get crazy in kitchens, as they’re wont to do, such interpersonal ease is a blessing. The pair works in tandem to develop and refine the menu. The Limeport Inn is known for its New American menu, but some vestiges of its previous Irish pub status are still in place, at least superficially: the sassy signs above the bar, the Celtic tile work on the tables around the bar and the general comfortable rustic aesthetic. And although there are also some old-world Belgians on tap now, Guinness remains. “That’s something if we removed, the people in town would march in with pitchforks,” Fischer says, laughing.
One key benchmark for a restaurant’s inventiveness is its appetizer menu. If you find yourself indecisively agonizing over which appetizers to order and you haven’t even so much as looked at the entrées, you know you’re in the right place. This is the experience at Limeport. There’s a creative interpretation of a Middle Eastern fattoush salad, rendered in satay form. And the crispy calamari are surrounded by Mediterranean flavors, with Kalamata olives, sun-dried tomato aioli and a caper salt—the latter accentuates the briny-salty essence. (“There’s no sad soggy squid on the plate,” says Fischer.) While we’re talking about starters, people also dig the turmeric roasted cauliflower, which takes a curry onion relish, spiced ginger cashews and whipped ricotta.
To keep themselves engaged, and to keep things fresh, they reinvented a popular menu item that can be found at a lot of places—baked Brie en croute. Imagine, instead, gooey Brie surrounded by layers of crispy flakiness in the form of spring rolls, with an apricot bacon jam, roasted pistachios and hot honey. It’s a much lighter and more enjoyable way to experience this classic starter.
“We respect the favorites of regulars, and we’ll always tweak things in a manner that appeases the crowds, and feels like an improvement,” says Fischer.
Order those apps or maybe one of their dozen or so pizzas (they did a brisk business with them during the pandemic), and sit outside on their beloved landscaped patio, complete with requisite relaxing water features. Menu items change periodically and carefully, and specials often make good use of seasonal produce. Please don’t miss the French onion ribeye grilled cheese, which is so simple it’s shocking how tasty it is.
Rumor has it the BLT is fabulous, too, and with thick-cut bacon and a farm-fresh egg, how could one go wrong? Bigger appetites should check out Limeport’s version of pad Thai, which goes right for the umami—and loads up on lots of fresh seafood, with shrimp, scallops and mussels. The entrées also include some pasta dishes, along with sea bass, salmon, New Zealand lamb, filet and a bourbon-barbecue-glazed meatloaf, too.
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French Onion Ribeye Grilled Cheese - Garlic and herb sourdough, provolone and parmesan
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Grapefruit Gin Fizz
It’s probably not a surprise to disclose that everything is scratch-made here, including the sauces and dressings, and the food is locally sourced, whenever possible. Beef comes from a family farm upstate, Fischer says, and the eggs are collected from the Jamisons’ own 60-plus acre farm. “They’re all free-range, happy chickens. They lay the best eggs,” she says.
Let’s not forget dessert, shall we? This course receives special treatment, too. Angel Jamison is in charge of all things pastry, and the way Fischer tells it, her mom is of the belief that you cannot have enough dessert options. So at Limeport, there’s a plethora of selections including cheesecake, chocolate items, vanilla bean crème brûlée (“it’s phenomenal,” says Stull), Meyer lemon panna cotta and pound cake served in a jar with fruit and ice cream and carrot cake, too (the candied ginger makes the carrot cake a standout). Ice cream is the rare item that’s brought in; but it doesn’t travel far, from Longacre’s Modern Dairy in Barto.
At some point during our interview, it’s revealed that the Limeport’s success is truly word-of-mouth—they’ve never advertised. This stops the conversation in its tracks; it seems so unfathomable. The family vibe is undoubtedly responsible for the longevity of this place; Fischer started working there “as soon as I was legally able to work the line,” and Stull since high school. “As long as I’m still learning, I’ll be here,” says Stull.
During the pandemic, many restaurant families grew closer, and that’s certainly true for the Jamisons and their extended workplace clan. “They treat you like you are part of the family. They did not want anyone to go without or have difficulty during the pandemic,” says Stull.
The two pause, sensing a need to observe quiet for a moment.
“There is a special energy in this building,” Fischer says.
The Limeport Inn
1505 Limeport Pike, Coopersburg | 610.967.1810 | limeportinn.com
*Please check their website and/or social media for current operating hours and procedures.
Hours
Tues.–Sat.: 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m.; Sun.: 2–8 p.m. (full menu all day)
Parking
Lot on the premises
Reservations
Recommended for special occasions, definitely, and weekends
What to Order
People really adore the pizzas, creatively rendered types such as wild mushroom and Gruyère, a vegetarian pesto pizza, smoked bacon and ranch chicken and, of course, margherita. Don’t miss the calamari, the fried Brie spring rolls or the burger (everyone loves a good burger). An incredible indulgence at lunch or dinner is the ribeye grilled cheese, with provolone, and served on a Parmesan-crusted sourdough. It’s satisfying, simple and well-executed; it’s worth driving a long distance for, it’s that good. Cocktails are a sure bet, too—everyone upped their mixology game over the pandemic. The grapefruit gin fizz is especially refreshing.
