Pennsylvania is loaded with lots of old stone buildings that have stood the test of time, hosted many a weary traveler upstairs and served thousands upon thousands of meals.
McCoole’s at the Historic Red Lion Inn is one such place. Situated in Downtown Quakertown, what began as an inn during the 1740s owned by Walter McCoole has now grown into a rather sprawling enterprise with an adjacent black box theater, brewery and event space (the latter held in the old livery stable). It still has that feel of serving all comers and you can feel several hundred years of hospitality in the exposed stone, the wood tones everywhere and the mix of antiques and vintage décor, here and there.
Owner Jan Hench with chef Eddie Mora
McCoole’s was a popular Revolutionary War hangout and served as a meeting place for the organizers of the Fries Rebellion. It was also part of the Underground Railroad at one point; some of those tunnels still exist underground. One owner also apparently permitted goats and horses to wander through the dining room as recently as 60 or 70 years ago. (It seems apocryphal, but places like this have stories.)
As with any seriously historic building, especially one that’s worked as a lodge, McCoole’s is not without its deaths and ghosts. Owner Jan Hench tells the tale of how the inn’s previous owner passed away at a high-top table right across from the bar. His wife thought he was napping, which was a normal occurrence. “We have lots of various ghosts,” Hench says, of the men, women and children whose presence is occasionally felt. (They’re friendly.)
These places have a lot of personality and have hosted many personalities—TV’s beloved dog Lassie was a regular, for example. The inn’s former owners used to drop a steak on the floor so often for the collie that there was, for a while, a stain on the floor (it’s since been remedied). Old inns like McCoole’s have a strong appeal, and tend to attract the kind of owners who are especially equipped to deal with their quirks and history.
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Hench has owned this place for about 20 years, and is the current steward in a long line of owners. When she bought the place, it needed a ton of restoration—just ask, she’ll tell you about it. She shares these stories easily, along with the photo album that documents the renovations, as they are well woven into the fabric of the inn’s history. “This building has never not been occupied,” says Hench. It would be an understatement to say that owning and maintaining the entire McCoole’s complex is a labor of love.
But let’s talk about the food (and the beer), because that’s why people keep coming, right? One menu is served all day, which dramatically simplifies matters, and it includes the standard run of appetizers, soups, salads, sandwiches and entrées. McCoole’s has the kind of straightforward classic American menu that offers something for just about everyone, with ingredients that aren’t too fussy.
The restaurant is first and foremost known for its clam chowder, which is made to order so that everything is guaranteed to be fresh. Unfortunately, many people’s first encounter with clam chowder is the thick white stuff from a can. Real clam chowder is far superior. Chef Eddie Mora creates this with potatoes, bacon and a white wine and cream broth for a soup that’s rich but not at all heavy. The veggies are cooked in the rendered bacon fat, which adds another layer of flavor, and the soup is garnished with littleneck clams still in their shells, along with pieces of toast.
Elsewhere, the McCoole’s Dip is popular, made with prime rib and topped with melted provolone along with a horseradish sauce. Salmon receives a teriyaki treatment with fried rice tossed with wild mushrooms and bok choy. You can order the usual proteins, such as filet mignon and prime rib, along with seafood such as scallops and grits, and twin broiled crab cakes (no filler). The McCoole’s Salad has plenty of visual and culinary interest, with beets, mandarin orange slices, blue cheese, dried cranberries and sunflower seeds. A citrus-driven dressing brings it all together. (As a side note, this salad, along with the Caesar, is available in half or full portions, which is a nice option.) Local ingredients are sourced whenever possible; the chicken for their sandwiches (including the unique Pickle Back) and chicken parmesan comes from Bell & Evans, a well-known distributor in Pennsylvania, for example. A local farm brings them duck eggs. Other seasonal additions and subtractions pop up on the menu as available, says Hench.
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The restaurant is first and foremost known for its clam chowder, which is made to order so that everything is guaranteed to be fresh.
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The McCoole’s Salad has plenty of visual and culinary interest, with beets, mandarin orange slices, blue cheese, dried cranberries and sunflower seeds. A citrus-driven dressing brings it all together.
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The McCoole’s Dip is popular, made with prime rib and topped with melted provolone along with a horseradish sauce.
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Salmon receives a teriyaki treatment with fried rice tossed with wild mushrooms and bok choy.
As far as what you’re drinking while you’re here, there are plenty of cocktails to choose from, and people love the Mango Tango, which is made with rum and mango vodka, along with pineapple and cranberry juices. It’s a perennial favorite, but other seasonal drinks pop up, too, so keep an eye out for those. You’d be remiss, however, if you didn’t try Red Lion beer, which they started brewing in 2007 and is only available and distributed onsite (get yourself a growler). Brews change seasonally, but there are several staples, including the malty 1799 Rebel amber ale, that are worth seeking out.
For those who need to skip grains or who prefer cider, McCoole’s offers that, too. Their brew is aptly suited to a business with pre-Revolutionary War roots; cider was a popular drink and traditionally it’s more dry and less sweet than much of the back-sweetened cider that is currently available. You can really taste the apples and their various nuances, and that’s a testament to it not being too sweet, and the fact that the apples used for the cider come from a nearby orchard that grows heirloom varieties dating to the 1600s and 1700s, ones that are ideally suited for the task.
McCoole’s manages to balance its ample history with contemporary offerings that honor the local landscape and reflect the traditions of a place that’s offered food and lodging for many years.
McCoole's at the Historic Red Lion Inn
4 S. Main St., Quakertown | 215.538.1776 | mccoolesredlioninn.com
*Please check their website and/or social media for current operating hours and procedures.
Hours
Wed.–Sun.: noon–9 p.m.; one menu all day
Parking
Several lots onsite; street parking
Reservations
Recommended for weekends
What to Order
If you come here you need to try the clam chowder. It’s light, fresh and flavorful. The sandwiches are ample and appropriately messy; the McCoole’s Dip is beloved. People also love the salmon, along with the Mango Tango cocktail. The cider is worth a sip, too.
Fun Fact
Representations of red lions can be found throughout the restaurant, and the name’s significance is more a function of social history than anything else. As Hench describes it, “A lot of people couldn’t read during the founding of lots of these old inns, so they often have a color and an animal name to them.” Thus, Red Lion Inn.
Published as "Inside Dish" in the December 2022 edition of Lehigh Valley Style magazine.
