Although Benjamin Franklin bequeathed a robust and diverse legacy to the nation, shaping the fashion world was probably never a top priority for the printer/postmaster/inventor/diplomat. And yet, and although hundreds of years have passed since the waistcoats and breeches of Franklin's day were very much in vogue, the Founding Father remains high on the list of inspirations for local designer Patrick Wilson. Wilson, founder of the high-end men's clothing brand Black House Academy, says Franklin is an example of the embodiment of curiosity, intellect and depth that define his designs and his company's overall mission. “There are a lot of people who make clothing, and a lot of clothing brands, but I wanted to put a twist on it,” he says. “I'm not into cookie-cutter.”
Like Franklin, Wilson is a man of many talents, and a man who wears many hats. The Emmaus High School grad studied fine arts with an emphasis on sculpture at Kutztown University. But after graduation, music became his main muse. Wilson had been playing the drums since the tender age of six; as a teenager, he took on the guitar and songwriting. During his 20s he focused on composition work, and served as the front man for the Lehigh Valley-based rock group Poppycock Babble. But the seeds for his future calling had been planted early. “I remember caring about the way I looked in sixth grade,” he recalls. “I enjoyed going shopping. You didn't have to pull my arm to go shopping.”
Still, Wilson says he didn't consider fashion a viable career option until he was looking to make a change in his life. He enrolled in graphic design classes at Lehigh Carbon Community College, which, as a guy used to rolling up his sleeves and making art with his hands, required a shift in his approach to the creative process. “The whole digital world was not appealing to me,” he says.
In 2006, a friend introduced him to the major players at the New York-based, luxury men's fashion house Robert Graham, a company that prides itself on using intricate, bold and often loud patterns on its shirts. “They were looking for something not bought at a print show, something unique to them,” says Wilson. He came up with a four-foot by six-foot painting done in black and white that Robert Graham turned into a repeat pattern for a line of woven shirts. It was one of many projects he would complete for the company as a freelance designer over the years. All the while, Wilson was soaking up everything he could about the fashion industry. “I started learning how things are put together—about the construction of clothing.”
About four years ago, the connections he made at Robert Graham landed him another enviable client—the Beach Boys. Wilson says the band has entrusted him with several creative endeavors, most recently designing the T-shirts for its latest tour, as well as the artwork for Mike Love's Christmas album. What's it like spitballing ideas with a legendary rock group? Says Wilson: “Free flowing. Not a lot of headbutting.” An added bonus: When the band came to the Lehigh Valley for a gig in 2016, Wilson got to show off his musical chops by subbing in on the drums for the encore song, “Barbara Ann.” “There was no rehearsal. They put a lot of trust in me,” Wilson recalls.
While working (and jamming) with A-listers certainly has its perks, Wilson says the idea of starting his own clothing line had been taking shape for several years. After careful consultation with his wife, Mary Rose Wilson, he decided to officially take the plunge in 2017. “We just thought the timing was right,” he says. “I had gotten a lot of hands-on experience, so I felt comfortable with manufacturing, textiles and how to put the whole process together.”
The first step—establishing the brand's identity—was a no-brainer. Wilson says he had owned the domain for Black House Academy for some time; he had even designed a logo that he used for his work in music. “I always thought it would be a cool clothing brand,” he says. And that's where good ol' Ben Franklin enters the picture—Wilson says Black House Academy was inspired in part by the idea of a secret society, similar to a group that a young Franklin founded in 1727. The Junto, also known as the Leather Apron Club, brought together men of various backgrounds and vocations to discuss pertinent moral, philosophical and political issues. Franklin was said to thrive on lively debate sparked by the “thinkers” of the day; Wilson says he, too, is inspired by inventors and innovators, and wants to convey that appreciation in his craft. “I wanted to mix history and science with the arts,” he says. He envisions a future in which the BHA website (blackhouseacademy.com) will feature such movers and shakers. For now, it's all about the clothing, and, in keeping with the overall concepts on which the company was founded, the thought process behind each garment and each design runs deep. “Everyone plays it safe,” Wilson says. “I wanted to change it up.”
BHA doesn't do seasons; instead, the focus is on smaller collections. “When I'm ready to release something new, I release something new,” says Wilson. He uses fabrics from all over the world, including Italy, Spain and Turkey. The most recent offering—Collection 4—utilizes exclusively Japanese fabrics, with each piece hand-numbered and unique to the buyer.
A cursory glance at the BHA website reveals an array of plaids, checks and solids—the staples of many a men's clothing line—but it's important to look closer. Explains Wilson: “Instead of being about loud fabrics, it's about the details and the trim.” For example, all of the buttons are genuine horn and bone buttons, a nod to old-world craftsmanship. “It's a very traditional way of doing it,” Wilson says. The custom-made, metal collar stays are the handiwork of a father and son operation in Portugal, where the bulk of the BHA lines come to life.
And, like that dad-son duo thousands of miles away, strong family ties also figure prominently in Wilson's business ventures. “I'm doing most of it, but I definitely have good family and friend support,” he says. “I wouldn't be doing this without the encouragement and stability they bring. They help to keep the machine going.” He cites his wife and the couple's three children as key players in the success of Black House Academy. In addition, he credits photographer Erik Krogh, an old high school friend, with helping to bring his creative vision to life on the BHA website. “Our aesthetics are very much the same.”
Wilson's BHA wares have landed in some of the most exclusive men's shops and retailers in the world, including a pop-up shop at the renowned Rothmans in New York City, and the new Wolf & Badger location at King's Cross in London. As of now, Lehigh Valley shoppers won't stumble upon any Black House Academy offerings in local stores, but they can shop to their heart's content on the company's website. Wilson says he's not opposed to opening a local brick-and-mortar location in the future. “I think if we found the right space, we would definitely consider it,” he says. But, he adds: “We're in no rush.” Should that destination become reality, Wilson says he would most likely feature other labels besides BHA, to keep with his goal of emboldening other visionaries in his field. Ben Franklin would be proud.
