Pennsylvania's contributions to the culinary hall of fame go beyond cheesesteaks and shoo-fly pie. The proof is in the pages of Tasting Pennsylvania: Favorite Recipes from the Keystone State, authored by Lehigh Valley Style food writer Carrie Havranek. The cookbook is more than just a collection of delicious offerings from a statewide selection of creative chefs, bakers and bartenders—it's also a nod to Pennsylvania's rich agricultural output, and an invitation for readers to roll up their sleeves and make the magic happen in their own kitchens.
Tasting Pennsylvania was released this past August, the culmination of a process that Havra-nek says began well over two years ago. The book is part of a series published by Farcountry Press that aims to spotlight a particular state's local flavor. “It's important to understand why we eat the things we eat, and how they're connected to where we live,” says Havranek. Although she was raised in southern New Jersey, Havranek has been surrounded by Pennsylvania's food culture since she was a kid. “My parents used to take us up and down [Route] 611,” she says. While food traditions didn't factor prominently into her childhood, she recalls trips to farms and pick-your-own produce places. “We always did everything with fresh and local food,” she says. Another vivid memory: traveling to Lancaster County to visit her mother's Aunt Charlotte, who, Havranek says, made everything from scratch and even dotted her applesauce with Red Hots candy. It was there where Havranek was first introduced to the Amish way of life and the Pennsylvania Dutch tenet of self-sufficiency. Those trips planted in Havranek a seed that would bear fruit later in her professional career. “It must have imprinted something on my consciousness,” she says.
Following her graduation from Rutgers University with a B.A. in journalism and American studies, and later from New York University with an M.A. in journalism, Havranek dove into a writing career. She emerged as a food writer after first focusing on culture and travel—she profiled two-dozen trailblazing musicians in Women Icons of Popular Music (published in 2008), and co-authored the Frommer's Philadelphia and the Amish Country (published in 2007). While she's had her work published in foodie favorites like Edible Philly, Every Day with Rachael Ray, Kitchn and, yes, right here in Lehigh Valley Style, Tasting Pennsylvania is her first cookbook. She teamed up with photographer Alison Conklin (also a Lehigh Valley Style contributor) to tackle the daunting task of crafting Pennsylvania's culinary biography.
The end result is about 100 recipes (108, to be exact) that aren't meant to be a comprehensive A–Z guide to Pennsylvania cuisine, says Havranek, but rather a snapshot of what is happening at this moment in restaurants, diners, cafés and bed-and-breakfasts across the Keystone State. Those expecting the foods that have come to be known as quintessential fare from this part of the country won't be disappointed. “We knew what we wanted to put in there in terms of what you would expect from Pennsylvania,” she says. That means, yes, scrapple, shoo-fly pie, the Philly cheesesteak and the Pittsburgh salad are given their due, but the list is much longer—and more delicious—than that. “There's a wide variety, from James Beard Award-winning chefs to mom-and-pop places that have been around forever,” Havranek says.
And, as you might expect, the Lehigh Valley is well-represented in these pages: for example, local diners may already be familiar with Chef Lee Chizmar's mushroom ramen from Mister Lee's Noodles in Easton, or with Chef Geo Dodig's arugula and mushroom salad from Molinari's restaurant in Bethlehem. Other recipes, like a beet-cured salmon out of Philadelphia, or a crab bisque recipe that hails from Scranton, may be first-time palate pleasers for Lehigh Valley foodies.
Those in search of liquid refreshment won't be disappointed, either. “I'm particularly excited about all of the cocktails in this book, which is a new-ish thing for the series,” says Havranek. “We have award-winning distilleries and meaderies in this state, so this is a no-brainer.” Havranek says, although she doesn't have a favorite, per se, among the 108 options in Tasting Pennsylvania, she can personally vouch for all of them. “I made every recipe at least twice in my own kitchen,” she says. And that meant soldiering on when things didn't go exactly as planned; Havranek had to enlist the help of a guest chopper when she broke a finger about halfway through the process in a karate mishap involving her twin sons, Desmond and Miles. The boys, now 11, also played a major role in bringing the cookbook across the finish line. “They ate almost everything in this book, or at least tried it,” says Havranek.
Now that the trail has been blazed, it's Havra-nek's hope that readers follow her lead. “People shouldn't be afraid to cook,” she says. “Anyone can make these recipes.” Her advice for those more comfortable reaching for a take-out menu than braising a brisket? Start small. “Start with a soup,” she advises. “Make the dishes on toast.
The [Homestyle] meatballs are easy. The burgers take a bit more work, but they're not impossible. There's something for everybody.” And for those vexed by things like fennel pollen or Espelette pepper, never fear: Havranek has included in the sources section recommendations on where to procure some of the book's more unusual ingredients.
Havranek is also a major proponent of patronizing the Lehigh Valley region's many farms, farmers' markets and food stands. The Easton Farmers' Market, Easton Public Market and Trauger's Farm Market (off Route 611 in Kintnersville) are among her favorite haunts. In many ways, she says (only half-kiddingly), Pennsylvania is like the California of the East Coast, minus the citrus and avocado. “We are so lucky that we can find fresh, local food in most parts of the state during most of the year.” And she's heartened to know that the custom of cooking and eating from the land is very much still alive in the Keystone State. “We have a lot of small farms and chefs and businesses that are very interested in honoring the traditions and working with the traditions to create something new for people to eat,” says Havranek.
It's obvious that Havranek, who is also an associate editor for Simply Recipes, is well versed on the ins and outs of both the local and regional food scene. And, while she can presumably chop, roast, flambé, steam and sauté with the best of them, wearing the toque blanche and white jacket that adorn many a cook was never in the cards. “I always say I'm a culinary professional, not a chef,” she says. “My primary inclination is to get people to cook good food.” With Tasting Pennsylvania, she may have done just that.
A Q&A with Conklin
How did you get involved in the Tasting Pennsylvania cookbook? What about the project appealed to you?
It was actually over the James Beard dinner held at The Hamilton a few years ago. All of the other guests at the table had left and it was just Carrie and me sitting together enjoying the experience. We had worked together for a while in terms of I would photograph places she would write about, but we hadn't had a whole lot of actual time together. We were chatting and she excitedly said that she just signed a contract for a book deal! I shared her excitement and one thing led to another.
Talk a little bit about the process of photographing all of those dishes and drinks.
It took about a year to complete the process of shooting all of the dishes. Carrie would make three or four recipes a day and we would shoot it. I had way too much fun collecting props in terms of dishes and items to use for the photos. Carrie and I each included some of our own personal pieces—items that belonged to our families that held sentimental value as well as new-found pieces along the way (read: I was Crate & Barrel's number one fan). Our friendship grew throughout that year working together and some days we would find ourselves laughing nonstop or sometimes crying through life circumstances at the time. I will always remember that year fondly.
Were there any unexpected challenges you encountered?
I wouldn't say challenges. Well, unless you would consider shooting scrapple and attempting to make it look yummy. (I apologize if it is your favorite breakfast.) Sometimes, Carrie would be missing an ingredient so we would have FaceTime calls while I roamed the grocery store aisles. It was always a good time.
Of the many gorgeous photos you took, do you have a favorite?
I have two most favorites. The first one is this yummy salad; I loved the plates and I was super excited to find the surface that we shot it on—which was Carrie's sons' toy chest. I simply turned it over and found that the bottom was worn and had this great color and texture. The second is another favorite because I love pierogis. I loved the process, from making them by hand to eating them, and the recipe was contributed by one of my friends (and talented chef): Cindie Feldman.
Snag both of these recipes below!
Make 29 Cooks' Pierogi Two Ways
Make Molinari's Arugula and Mushroom Salad
Can you share any tricks of the trade for making foodie pictures like these really shine?
Oh gosh—I would say finding that balance of making it look like it really was just sitting there without too much actual styling, even though it's so much about the styling! Ha!
