I’ve been driving past Wanderlust in Forks Township for the past year, witnessing the lot teeming with cars and the quippy messages on the digital display. From the road, it’s nearly impossible to see anything of this establishment, because it’s obscured behind a fairly low-slung but sprawling building that had been vacant for a bit. Every time I passed, I kept asking myself, what is going on here? Are people of Easton and Forks that starved for something awesome?
When I heard the announcement on social media that Jeremy Bialker, the long-running chef and general manager at Two Rivers Brewing Company, had taken the managerial helm at Wanderlust, I knew I should have been paying much closer attention.
Matt Jinks & Jeremy Bialker
And so, the answer to both of those questions is a resounding yes, but there’s a lot more going on than what meets the eye as you drive by.
Wanderlust Beer Garden is a one-of-a-kind establishment in the Lehigh Valley. First, it’s entirely outdoors (there are indoor bathrooms, don’t worry) and therefore seasonal, operating from April to November, weather permitting. Secondly, it’s styled like a beer garden and isn’t a brewery; that’s important to clarify. Thirdly, it caters to adults, children and dogs in equal and enthusiastic measure. (Note the abundance of beer taps, playground equipment and dog bowls.)
Imagine an enclosed but sprawling playground chock-full with upcycled infrastructure that contains the following: an Airstream from Florida transformed into a bar, an old truck hollowed out to become a bandstand, beer garden tables imported from Germany, a barn-like structure for indoor events (think parties and small wedding receptions), fire pits, goofy signs and plenty of creative nooks with lots of whimsical surprises.
To say it’s unique is a bit of an understatement.
“It’s like nowhere else I’ve ever worked in my entire career,” says Bialker.
There are many reasons for that. Wanderlust operates a perpetually parked, baby-blue food truck inside its gates, and the grounds are extensive, admittedly netting Bialker upwards of 20,000 steps on any given Saturday. Once the doors are open, they’re open. And Wanderlust doesn’t take reservations, because it’s basically like eating and hanging out in an enclosed park, or a very large backyard, albeit one with live music and pickup trucks converted into booths. “You can’t ever say we have no seats,” says Bialker.
So how does it work, exactly? You show up and can do any number of things. Order food or a drink, or just come in and sit down, and order later. It’s mostly self-service. Grab a table as the kids seek out the playground equipment toward the back. Walk your dog around. People are always coming and going.
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“People do things in all different kinds of order,” explains Bialker. Unlike a traditional restaurant, where the order of operations is pretty standard—you come in, you sit down, you order and you eat (rinse and repeat!)—Wanderlust is freewheeling. And that can make it unpredictable for those who work there.
“It’s always busy between six and nine o'clock, but getting the food prepped can sometimes be a bit of a challenge,” says Bialker. There isn’t the typical rush, necessarily, but you might find an unexpected wait now and then in order for the kitchen to keep apace. “You’re either waiting in line to order, or waiting for food. We had to decide which we’d rather live with,” he says, chuckling. Waiting in line won out, which makes sense, especially if people are familiar with food truck concepts, where lines are not uncommon. Still, even if you have to exercise some patience, there are lots of other people to talk to while you wait, the music is good and it’s hard to be cranky in an environment with so much whimsy.
And what exactly might one be waiting for? Elevated festival fare that doesn’t neglect the four food groups (check out the salads in jars from Simply Good Jars, a Philadelphia-area company). If you want to nosh on a few shareable things, the charcuterie board is beyond ample, loaded with cheese, sliced meats, grapes and bread. If that’s not enough cheese, get the Wisconsin cheese curds. Other go-tos could be, let’s say, the enormous Bavarian soft pretzel served with beer cheese (this beer cheese is a recurring theme). Fries, chicken fingers and mac and cheese are also available.
Otherwise, there are flatbreads, which operate like pizzas with all kinds of toppings: cheese, pepperoni, chicken-pesto and so forth. You can even get chicken-bacon-ranch, cheesesteak or, Bialker’s favorite, the arugula option. (Gluten-free crust is available for a slight upcharge).
Sandwiches exceed expectations, served on a long roll with very good homemade potato chips: chicken parm, cheesesteak, croque monsieur, buffalo chicken and so forth. But don’t miss the Papadan, which is a breaded chicken breast with caramelized onions (which instantly elevate anything they’re paired with), tomato, honey, goat cheese and pesto. (This, too, is a favorite.)
Finally, it wouldn’t be outdoor dining if you couldn’t have a burger, and there are several but they’re all six-ounce Angus beef burgers served with those delicious potato chips. The namesake burger, Wanderlust, comes on a brioche bun with lettuce and tomato, along with cheese, onion rings and a beer cheese sauce. You can also get a burger on a croissant, or a cheeseburger or blue cheeseburger. If you have room left, or you just want something sweet, head straight to the funnel cake fries, which are just what they sound like: funnel cake batter fried up in the shape of French fries and doused in confectioners’ sugar. (There’s also an ice cream truck, too, in case you only want that!)
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Wanderlust is definitely the genius of a business born in the wake of the pandemic. The Jinks family bought the property and, admittedly, it went through a few permutations before they settled on the concept. But once they did, it was full steam ahead; Matt Jinks, whose family owns the place with his dad, Al Jinks, shared the long (and somewhat hilariously disjointed) list of names under consideration. But as much as it’s a different concept for the Lehigh Valley, it’s not completely unheard of.
“People keep telling us, ‘Oh, I’ve been to a place like this in Austin,’ or ‘This is just like the place I went to in Portland,’” says Jinks. Yes, those are two self-identified “weird” places, but there’s nothing really weird about what they’re doing—it’s just a little left of center enough to stand out. “The people who get us, they really get us,” says Jinks.
You might be wondering about all those buildings and all that indoor space that seem to be unoccupied. The Jinks family is looking to transform some of those spaces so they can host private events and small parties. All of this is under development at the moment, but suffice to say it won’t be long before Wanderlust will create indoor spaces as signature as its outdoor space. This way, the Wanderlust magic can span the calendar year and offer people another way to experience this fun spot.
Wanderlust Beer Garden
1600 Sullivan Trl., Easton | 610.438.1093 | wanderlustbeergarden.com
Hours
Seasonal (April through November, weather permitting); Wed. & Thurs.: 4–10 p.m.; Fri. & Sat.: noon–11 p.m.; Sun.: noon–9 p.m.
Parking:
Enormous parking lot.
Reservations:
Not taken and not needed.
What to Order:
Well, everything we’ve eaten has been delicious! Don’t miss any of the burgers, the funnel cake fries or the Papadan sandwich. But there’s no chance you will leave hungry. The bar contains more than a dozen taps with lots of beer, much of it local, too.
Other Notes:
Because of the laid-back and unorthodox nature of Wanderlust, people have been tempted to bring in outside food or drinks, but as the sign by the gate indicates, such moves are not permissible.
Published as “Inside Dish” in the August 2023 edition of Lehigh Valley Style magazine.
