You know you’ve lived somewhere for a while when you go to a restaurant and you remember the previous two incarnations of the given address. Such is the case at Pennsylvania Rye Company, which most recently was home to the shuttered Grain restaurant and, prior to that, the long-running Federal Grill. But Pennsylvania Rye is a different situation altogether, grain namesake commonality notwithstanding, because it aims to be your neighborhood watering hole—if, you see, that watering hole was one that prioritized a wide array of whiskey options (including Japanese ones, yes—ask about these fascinating spirits) and a New American menu that’s approachable and comforting.
That, in a nutshell, is Pennsylvania Rye Company, but there’s a little bit more. The name, of course, celebrates the commonwealth’s longstanding role in rye whiskey production, but it also foreshadows a future incarnation of this business. That’s because owners Jesse Haik and Dan Gonzalez envision a distillery that specializes in, you guessed it, whiskey, on the premises right next door, taking over the existing space which was a bottle shop. “We’ll start by serving on- and off-site wine, beer and food, with lots of tastings, pairings and so forth—like a wine bar and market. The next phase after that will include distillation and bottling of our own spirits,” says Haik.
Left to right, owners Dan Gonzalez and Jesse Haik with executive chef Eduardo Aburto.
Let’s not get too ahead of ourselves, however. First, we need to explore and enjoy the space and its offerings as they currently exist, which is to say a simple rustic space with dim and cozy lighting, and a huge exposed brick wall behind the bar. It’s warm and inviting. Haik only wishes the bar were a little longer; at this writing, around 5 o’clock on a Wednesday, there wasn’t an empty stool.
“What we really wanted to do here is create that neighborhood watering hole, a place where you can come and hang out after work and stay until late, and have great food and excellent whiskey,” says Haik.
More to the point, Gonzalez invokes the defunct Allentown bar Cannon’s, known for its craft beer selection (before that was commonplace) and surprisingly great food. “We wanted to be unassuming, and we wanted to wow people here,” he says.
And they got lucky, says Gonzalez, because the folks at City Center approached them, asking if they had a concept ready for a restaurant. It seems that the whole thing—a great downtown location and a ready-to-go concept—just fell into their lap. Haik had worked at Centro and The Dime, Gonzalez at the Hamilton Kitchen & Bar, and they’re both known quantities in the Allentown dining scene. (Fun fact: Gonzalez is an Allentown native.)
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So, about that whiskey. The menu is divided up into rye, bourbon, American, Scotch, Japanese and Irish; 21 of the options are from Pennsylvania. We aren’t going to get into the particularities of each here, other than to say that Scotch is specifically Scottish whiskey, bourbon is uniquely American and Pennsylvania rye is largely associated with the western part of the state and is “relatively young,” says Haik, thanks to interruptions in production because of Prohibition. But what about Japanese whiskey? When people think about spirits and Japan, sake typically comes to mind, not whiskey. “I don’t think anyone has seen yet exactly what Japanese whiskey will become,” he adds. (Ask about their selection!)
If you ask Haik to go into detail about how he’d strategize a flight of one whiskey type or another, he has much to say. That’s because this endeavor is borne out of a personal passion for both of them, but Haik especially. “I have 82 bottles of whiskey at home,” he says. “But here, we don’t want to miss a thing when it comes to whiskey.” What that means for the future is special tasting events with distillers themselves. (Stay tuned!)
It kind of raises the question: Why whiskey? Haik believes it is America’s greatest beverage product. “It has captivated the world in a big way and with the rebirth of Pennsylvania rye, we believe the spotlight will remain on the United States,” he says. He goes on to highlight the fact that there are so many expanding categories of whiskey here now, such as an "American Single Malt” and the "American Whiskey.”
Naturally, having all those different whiskey options at the ready means endless exploration and experimentation for cocktails. “On a personal level, yes, I am obsessed. I've collected whiskey from around the globe for nearly 16 years and I will never stop,” Haik says.
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Cider braised short ribs with sweet potato purée, braised leeks and jus.
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Grilled octopus with chorizo, olives, avocado and romesco sauce.
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Goat cheese croquettes with romesco sauce.
It’s great to have a cocktail or whiskey on the rocks, but invariably, we need food, too. At first, Haik says they were considering just offering small plates, and that’s how they opened up. But a week in, people were asking for entrées. “People loved the food so much, they wanted a more standard service,” says Haik. And so they added entrées, and currently serve a pasta Bolognese (fresh pasta made in house), a salmon dish over mushroom risotto, cider braised short ribs and a fried chicken half with potato wedges and coleslaw—among other fare. (Blessedly, the pasta is also available in a half portion, on the small plates menu; the mushroom risotto that’s nestled under the salmon can be ordered from the small plates menu, too.)
This eagerness to accommodate the customer seems to be the relative modus operandi at Pennsylvania Rye Company. Yes, there’s lots of whiskeys, but if you want your Jameson Orange, or your Hennessy, or some other special libation, chances are they can and will order it so it’s behind the bar whenever you (or someone else!) wants it. (Note: This is definitely how you take care of regulars, and how you build up your bar, to boot.)
And so, considering the relative approachability of the menu, with a range of small plates, soups, salads and entrées, you might be surprised to learn that the octopus appetizer is one of the hottest menu items since they opened in August. Yes, you said it. It’s cooked just about perfectly (compliments to chef Eduardo Aburto), served with chorizo and potatoes over a swatch of zesty romesco sauce. Octopus is one of those items that is easy to overcook, but here, it’s tender and flavorful.
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Salmon served over shiitake risotto with chives.
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Cheesecake with berries and figs.
The interest in whiskey grows, and so does the residential base in Allentown. Gonzalez says the city is poised to add another 1,000 apartment units, and it has two operational hotels within walking distance. “We are on an upswing; people are booking parties and special events,” says Haik. (Those can be accommodated upstairs, for example.)
Similarly, people will continue to need a welcoming spot, but one that surprises you, like the Cannon’s of yore, with equally excellent food and drinks. “We love geeking out on this stuff, but we just want to make people happy with what we’re offering,” says Haik.
Pennsylvania Rye Company
536 Hamilton St., Allentown | 484.929.2729 | paryeco.com
Hours
Wed.–Sun.: 3 p.m.–2 a.m.
Parking
Street parking, ArtsWalk deck and community deck behind the restaurant
Reservations
Recommended, for weekends
What to Order
Try a flight of whiskeys to get yourself started; you can order them by the brand—e.g., Wild Turkey, New Liberty, WhistlePig and the Macallen. But custom experiences are available too—ask for a progression of Japanese ones, or a flight of Pennsylvania selections and let them explain everything to you.
In terms of food? Well, the octopus is a standout, but if tentacles aren’t your thing (we get it), the fresh pasta dishes are a must-try, along with their burgers and hand-cut fries, the goat cheese croquettes and any of the veggie small plates (can anyone pass up Brussels sprouts now that we all know how great they’re supposed to taste?).
Special Events
Happy hour specials 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. every day they’re open. Pennsylvania Rye Company is a relative newcomer, but so far the last Wednesday night of every month is reserved for live jazz. Look for special whiskey-tasting events oriented around specific distillers.
Published as "Inside Dish" in the February 2023 edition of Lehigh Valley Style magazine.
